News November 2009

For the first time, Cartier presents a watch without any adjusting: correctly manufactured and assembled from the beginning, it remains adjusted all throughout its lifetime.

IDone Concept Watch

Cartier introduces a concept watch without adjusting!

The Watch Quote™ - November 29th, 2009



Indeed, thanks to an innovative conception requesting breakthrough materials and technologies, this concept watch does not need the usual adjusting components of mechanical movements:

  • conceived as a mono-bloc piece and manufactured in carbon crystal (material allowing the use of a micron engraving technology), the balance-wheel is directly well balanced
  • calculated to obtain an optimum chronometry and manufactured in an innovative material called Zérodur®* (material allowing the use of a micron engraving technology), the active length of the hairspring is directly adapted to the balance-wheel
  • manufactured in carbon crystal, the anchor and the anchor wheel are perfectly matching at the time of assembly



Moreover, this concept watch remains perfectly adjusted throughout its lifetime thanks to:
  • a carbon crystal escapement cage mounted on silent-blocks (true shock-absorbers of the movement) which protect all the regulating components (hairspring, balance-wheel, anchor, anchor wheel, escapement axis),
  • a manufacturing of all regulating components in materials insensitive to thermal variations and magnetic fields (balance-wheel, anchor and anchor wheel in carbon crystal, hairspring in Zérodur®*, axis in titanium),
  • movement components with a very low friction coefficient. Indeed, they are either coated with ADLC, either manufactured in carbon crystal: this coating and this material do not need liquid lubrication (oil or grease)



Adjusting: a major know-how in mechanical watchmaking

TTraditionally, a mechanical watch’s movement requires several adjusting operations done by a master watchmaker. These adjusting operations are mandatory to ensure the good functioning of the watch.

As soon as the watchmaker starts assembling the watch, he needs to operate several adjustments:
  • Make the balance-wheel perfectly balanced, either with adjusting screws, either by removing matter on the rim
  • Adjust the hairspring with the balance-wheel by modulating its active length, most of the time using an index assembly
  • Ensure a good match between the escapement components (anchor and anchor wheel), by modifying the position of the adjusting pallet-stones on the anchor.

In some situations the movement might get misadjusted: in case of shocks or magnetisation, when there are strong thermal variations or when the oils get too old or dried. If this happens, the movement has to be re-adjusted.


Movement



Cartier manufacture mechanical movement with automatic winding, without adjusting
  • Diameter: 16 lignes ½ soit 36,8 mm
  • Thickness: 6,12 mm
  • Number of jewels: 17
  • Number of pieces: 177

  • Anchor and anchor wheel: carbon crystal, without jewel pallet-stones. Double-barrel with around 52 hours power reserve

  • Main plate in brass coated with ADLC (Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon) and decorated with Côtes de Genève.



Hairspring



Hairspring in Zérodur®*,
without index assembly.


Balance-wheel



Balance-wheel mono-bloc, in carbon crystal,
28 800 vibrations / hour


Oscillating weight



Oscillating weight in tungsten carbide coated with ADLC



Case

  • Niobium-titanium 46 mm case,
  • fabric strap,
  • adjustable folding clasp in 18k white gold.
  • Sapphire crystal and caseback.
  • this concept watch is not made to be commercialised.

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* The Zérodur® hairspring is still being worked on. The brand Zérodur® does not belong to Cartier.

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